- A scientist might suggest we study fluid dynamics, rotational mechanics, and drag forces to create the perfect spinner/worm rig.
- In practice, perfect performance has been achieved for decades using trial and error…and not much engineering.
- Add 2 more beads, make them 8mm, not 6mm, use a larger clevis, make it a #4 Colorado, not a #3 – and there we have it: A perfect fish catcher! A cooler full of walleyes!
By Forrest Fisher
Spinner and worm rigs are a staple for catching walleye across the U.S. and Canada because they combine several characteristics that specifically appeal to the way walleye feed. Why are they so effective? It’s simple: flash, vibration, scent, and taste.
Many walleye anglers from across North America have grown up with friends who used a spinner/worm harness rigged with a live nightcrawler as their ONLY LURE for walleye fishing. In tackle shops where walleye fishing is famous, hand-made spinner/worm rigs dot the walls. In Eastern Lake Erie, a spinner-worm (nightcrawler) harness is tried-and-true as a walleye catcher. The innocent-looking rigs are especially effective all summer long. To rig them properly, there are balance, bead, spacing, and blade color considerations, and at least three differences in blade shapes. Each of these variables matters.
Along the New York shoreline of lake Erie, daily angler limit catches of 6-walleye per angler, 15-inch minimum, are typical. Four anglers innthe boat and at the dock, 24 walleyes in the cooler headed for the cleaning station in Barcelona, Dunkirk, Sunset Bay and Buffalo, NY. The walleye fishing from all of the Chautauqua County ports of access has been amazing. The best lure for 2025? Yep, a simple spinner and worm rig. Forward-facing sonar or regular downscan, the fish don’t care, just get a spinner/worm down there and hang on.
A scientist might defer to suggesting that we all study fluid dynamics, rotational mechanics, drag forces, and material balance to achieve consistent blade spin across a wide range of trolling speeds. In practice, the drag force, lift force, and oscillation of the blade have been achieved for decades using trial and error, and not much engineering.
A typical nightcrawler harness consists of a spinner blade (Colorado, Indiana, or Willow), a series of beads – usually measured in millimeters, and one or two hooks (single) tied on a monofilament, stainless steel, or wire leader.
The blade shape matters because it affects vibration, flash, and the speed at which you can troll effectively. The Colorado blade is round, used for very slow trolling (1-1.5 mph), has a slow, wide wobble with a strong vibration, and works well in murky water. The Indiana blade, a versatile teardrop shape with moderate wobble and flash, is a good all-around blade. The Willow blade is a long, narrow blade made for fast trolling in clear water that provides lots of flash and works best when flash is more important than vibration.
Once the blade choice is made, the worm must be rigged just right. Use a whole nightcrawler and carefully thread the very tip of the head of the worm onto the first hook near the beads, then lightly hook the second hook about halfway down the body. Let the tail hang free; don’t thread it all the way up, or it won’t have natural action. Keep it straight – a twisted or overly curved crawler can spin unnaturally, causing line twist and reducing hits.
Of course, today, a spinner/worm harness can be rigged on a diving plane, a downrigger, an in-line weight, or with a bottom bouncer wire or sinker. Depending on how you are rigged with a weight, troll or drift (if the wind is right) around contour lines, reefs, or on noted suspended schools of walleye over deeper water. Vary speed and direction slightly as walleye often hit during speed changes and turns. For example, you can speed up and slow down your trolling speed or make slight turns to the left or right. These variations can often trigger an instant strike from a humble and cautious walleye. Speed changes and sharp turns can provoke walleye into striking.
Bead colors matter, too, depending on light conditions, water clarity and forage. Chartreuse/green is excellent for stained water or low light and mimics emerald shiners and young-of-the-year yellow perch. Purple/dark red is excellent for clear water and sunny days, as walleyes see purple well in the deepest water. Orange/fire-tiger is bright and functional in slightly stained or dirty water. Glow beads are great for dawn, dusk or deeper water where light is minimal. Metallic beads reflect light and act as mini-flashers during high sunshine.
When we mix and match colors and blade types, the most effective favorites are found. That’s what friends are for. Spread the word and have fun out there. There are lots of walleye to catch, especially in Lake Erie, the Eastern end.
If you attempting to make your first homemade spinner and worm rig and need a simple Forrest Fisher formula, try this one – it works: Use a #3 or #4 Colorado blade in hammered nickel finish, a wide metal clevis, size 6 or size 8 mm plastic beads in alternating colors (chartreuse/orange for contrast), two #4 Gamakatsu or Mustad snelled octopus hooks, all on 48 -60 inches of 15-20 pound fluorocarbon leader line. Use enough beads to occupy the blade length plus 2 beads when the blade is laid down horizontally over the beads. Visit a local tackle shop for these parts. This spinner-worm rig setup will work at enticingly slow speeds of o.9-1.9 mph with a 1- to 3-ounce bottom bounce 3-way rig or an inline sinker in 15- to 50-foot depths of water. This rig will provide lots of fish-catching flash and get right down to the bottom when used with a mainline of 10-15-pound braid.
Spinner and worm rigs are so effective because they stimulate multiple senses—sight, vibration, and smell/taste—at once, while being slow and natural enough to match the feeding style of walleye. Their adaptability to different fishing conditions and ability to provoke both feeding and reaction bites make them a go-to for walleye anglers. Go get ’em!